If you ask me where in Seoul you can do Retro Seoul – a traditional palace + modern-era architecture + a free art museum all in one seamless stretch, I’ll point to Deoksugung Palace, Jeongdong-gil, and the Seoul Museum of Art (SeMA Seosomun Main Branch) without hesitation. It’s right in the middle of the city, so getting around is easy, it won’t strain your budget, and most of all, there’s a long run of spots where photos come out wonderfully “retro”.
Half-day route at a glance
(Mostly walking / Start at City Hall Station on Subway Lines 1 & 2)
- Deoksugung Daehanmun Gate (optional: watch the Guard Changing Ceremony) →
- Walk inside Deoksugung (traditional palace + Western-style Seokjojeon Hall) →
- Deoksugung Stone Wall Walk & Jeongdong-gil (retro street vibes) →
- Seoul Museum of Art Seosomun Main Branch (SeMA) →
- (Optional) Jeongdong Observatory (a free view overlooking Deoksugung)
Hours & admission: key points only
| Place | Hours / Closed | Admission (typical) | Highlight |
|---|---|---|---|
| Deoksugung Palace | 09:00–21:00 (ticketing/entry until 20:00) / Closed Mondays | Adults 1,000 KRW (foreigners ages 19–64) / Free entry may apply for ages 18 and under, 65 and over, etc. | Night opening (until 21:00) makes it great in the evening too (CULTURAL HERITAGE ADMINISTRATION) |
| Guard Changing Ceremony (Daehanmun) | Year-round 11:00 / 14:00 (twice daily), except Mondays; may be canceled in extreme heat/cold, rain, etc. | Free to watch | Secure that “royal Seoul” shot (Seoul Culture Portal) |
| Jeongdong-gil (Jeongdong-gil/Deoksugung-gil area) | Always open | Free | Selected as a pedestrian-friendly street in 1999; the key is 1 km of stone wall + street trees (Official Website of the) |
| Seoul Museum of Art Seosomun Main Branch (SeMA) | Tue–Thu 10–20 / Fri 10–21 / Weekends & holidays (Mar–Oct) 10–19, (Nov–Feb) 10–18 / Closed Mondays & Jan 1 (open if Monday is a public holiday) | Free (special exhibitions may be paid) / Entry until 1 hour before closing | Historic former Supreme Court building + contemporary architecture is a core “retro Seoul” point (SeMA) |
| (Optional) Jeongdong Observatory | Weekdays 13:30–17:30 / Weekends 09:00–17:30, free | Free | Dedicated elevator + café “Café Darak” on site (Media Hub Seoul) |
⚠️ Since both Deoksugung and SeMA are typically closed on Mondays, this course is basically not recommended (you can only do the street walk). (CULTURAL HERITAGE ADMINISTRATION)
Two recommended timelines (choose what fits your schedule)
A. “Royal ceremony + palace” focus (morning type)
- 10:40 Arrive at City Hall Station → wait in front of Daehanmun Gate
- 11:00 Guard Changing Ceremony
- 11:30–12:30 Walk inside Deoksugung (including Seokjojeon exterior)
- 12:30–13:10 Café/light lunch on Jeongdong-gil
- 13:10–13:40 Vibe walk along the stone wall & Jeongdong-gil
- 13:40–15:00 Visit SeMA (free, so no pressure)
B. “Museum + observatory + vibe walk” focus (afternoon type)
- 13:30 Start with SeMA (just 1–2 exhibitions lightly)
- 15:00–15:40 Walk Jeongdong-gil (stone wall section)
- If you time it for the 14:00 ceremony, move to Daehanmun Gate
- 16:00–17:00 (Optional) Wrap up at Jeongdong Observatory with a Deoksugung view (weekdays possible) (Media Hub Seoul)
1) Starting point: Deoksugung Daehanmun Gate, “2 minutes flat” from City Hall Station
Deoksugung is about a 2-minute walk from **Exit 2 of City Hall Station (Lines 1 & 2)**—the kind of accessibility where you can practically see Daehanmun Gate right away.
Buses are also convenient if you get off at “City Hall Front · Deoksugung” stop, and since there’s no parking inside the palace, public transit is the right answer. (Royal KHS)
2) (Highlight) Guard Changing Ceremony: “A royal-palace moment in the middle of Seoul”
If a foreign friend is visiting Seoul for the first time, I recommend this ceremony as their “first impression.”
It takes place in front of Daehanmun Gate at 11:00 / 14:00 (twice daily), except Mondays, and it may be canceled depending on weather (extreme heat/cold, rain, etc.) or situations like emergency fine-dust reduction measures. (Seoul Culture Portal)
Tip
- For photos, a slightly angled side view rather than straight-on captures both people and the formation well.
- Right after the ceremony, the crowd rushes to enter Deoksugung—so if you want a calmer experience, go in as soon as the ceremony ends.
3) Deoksugung walking highlights: “Traditional palace + Seokjojeon (Western-style) contrast”
Because Deoksugung is open 09:00–21:00 (entry until 20:00), it’s great not only during the day, but also in the evening when the city nightscape and palace lighting blend together. (CULTURAL HERITAGE ADMINISTRATION)
Three “retro” scenes you’ll regret missing at Deoksugung
- Daehanmun Gate: A crisp shot of the palace gate framed by downtown buildings
- Seokjojeon Hall (Western-style stone building): The “Wait, Seoul has a European-style palace building?” moment
- Tree shadows + stone wall + sidewalk: An atmospheric cut that naturally continues into Jeongdong-gil
The admission fee (for foreigners) is hardly a burden
- Conditions are clearly listed, such as 1,000 KRW for foreigners ages 19–64, free for ages 18 and under/65 and over, free with hanbok, free on the last Wednesday of every month (Culture Day), and more. (CULTURAL HERITAGE ADMINISTRATION)
(Optional) If you want to see inside Seokjojeon: just remember “reservation/docent tour”
Deoksugung is great even if you only stroll, but interior visits to Seokjojeon (Korean Empire History Museum) are largely run via docent tours + reservations, so you might not get in with a spontaneous visit.
- Online advance reservation: Starting one week before your visit date, with guidance on per-session limits (e.g., 15 people or fewer). (Royal KHS)
- There are separate foreign-language docent tours (Deoksugung buildings) as well: for example, English is listed as Tue–Sun at 10:45 / 13:30. (Foreign-language tours are generally for foreign visitors.) (Royal KHS)
- Seokjojeon English tours are listed at 11:50 / 14:50, and there is also guidance that these sessions may allow on-site reservation (ID verification required). (Royal KHS)
If your travel style is “walk around and go in if it feels right,” then: just photograph Seokjojeon from the outside, and come back on a different day with a reservation when you have more time—it’s often more satisfying.
4) Jeongdong-gil walk: “The most cinematic sidewalk stretch in Seoul”
Once you leave Deoksugung and start walking along the stone wall, at some point you get the feeling that Seoul has turned into a ‘modern history museum street’.
Jeongdong-gil is introduced as starting from the Deoksugung Stone Wall Walk, passing the entrance to the Seoul Museum of Art, and continuing up to the north side of the Kyunghyang Shinmun building,
and it was selected as a pedestrian-friendly street in 1999, characterized by a 1 km-long stone wall and street trees running along the narrow road. (Official Website of the)
The greater Jeongdong area is also the kind of neighborhood where the “retro” vibe comes with historical narrative—often mentioned alongside Western legations (U.S., U.K., Russia, Germany, etc.) and historic buildings (Jeongdong Church, Ewha-related schools, and more). (Official Website of the)
(Quick add-on) Boost the vibe once more with “Gojong’s Road”
If you’d like to walk a bit more, there’s a hidden spot for strolling around Jeongdong called “Gojong’s Road.”
A pedestrian path connects between the north wall of Deoksugung and the British Embassy, and Gojong’s Road is introduced as an approximately 120 m stretch leading from Deoksugung toward Jeongdong Park (the former Russian Legation). (Media Hub Seoul)
5) Seoul Museum of Art (SeMA Seosomun Main Branch): “It’s free, and the building itself is already an exhibit”
The cleanest finale to a Jeongdong-gil walk is the Seoul Museum of Art Seosomun Main Branch.
You can come here simply “to see an exhibition,” but honestly, the building itself is retro.
- The Seosomun Main Branch, located in the heart of Jeongdong, is introduced as a space where the Renaissance-style front of the former Supreme Court building harmonizes with a modern architectural rear section. (SeMA)
- It’s also noted that the building was built in 1928 as the “Gyeongseong Court,” then used as the Supreme Court after Liberation, and after the Supreme Court relocated before 1995, it has been used as the Seoul Museum of Art since 2002. (SeMA)
Visiting hours (must check!)
- Tue–Thu 10:00–20:00
- Fri 10:00–21:00
- Weekends & holidays: Summer (Mar–Oct) 10:00–19:00 / Winter (Nov–Feb) 10:00–18:00
- Closed Mondays & 1/1 (open if Monday is a public holiday)
- Entry until 1 hour before closing (SeMA)
How much is admission?
- Generally free; special exhibitions may be paid (SeMA)
Why it’s great for foreign visitors/family travelers (practical tips)
- Conveniences like stroller rental, storage lockers, wheelchair access, and elevators are provided in the guidance. (SeMA)
- Official exit information for City Hall Station is also clearly provided, so there’s less stress finding your way. (Line 1 City Hall Station Exit 1 / Line 2 Exits 10, 11, 12, etc.) (SeMA)
6) (Optional) Jeongdong Observatory: “A free ending with a top-down view of Deoksugung”
If you want one last punch, add Jeongdong Observatory.
It’s on the 13th floor of Seoul City Hall’s Seosomun Annex, and since April 2024 it’s been introduced as expanding opening hours to 13:30–17:30 on weekdays, with 09:00–17:30 on weekends, and free admission. (Media Hub Seoul)
In addition, there’s guidance about a dedicated elevator running straight from the 1st floor to the 13th, plus the on-site café “Café Darak”. (Media Hub Seoul)
Why this course works for “retro Seoul” (summary)
- Deoksugung: The texture of a traditional palace + the air of the modern era
- Jeongdong-gil: A modern-era street where stone walls, street trees, and diplomatic/educational/religious institutions intersect
- SeMA: Functions as a contemporary art museum while keeping the face of the former court/Supreme Court building
- Jeongdong Observatory (optional): A final shot that frames all these layers in one view
Example costs (truly great value)
- Deoksugung: 1,000 KRW (for the eligible age group) (CULTURAL HERITAGE ADMINISTRATION)
- Jeongdong-gil: Free
- SeMA: Free (except special exhibitions) (SeMA)
- Observatory: Free (Media Hub Seoul)
→ Add only coffee/snacks and a “half-day in central Seoul” easily stays under 10,000–20,000 KRW.
FAQ
Q1. Until what time can I enter Deoksugung?
Deoksugung visiting hours are listed as 09:00–21:00, with ticketing and entry until 20:00. (CULTURAL HERITAGE ADMINISTRATION)
Q2. Is the Deoksugung–Seoul Museum of Art course possible on Mondays?
Not recommended. Deoksugung is closed on Mondays, and SeMA is also closed on Mondays (open if Monday is a public holiday), so the two core spots are often closed at the same time. (CULTURAL HERITAGE ADMINISTRATION)
Q3. When is the Deoksugung Guard Changing Ceremony?
According to the Seoul Culture Portal, it runs year-round at 11:00 / 14:00 (twice daily), and it may be excluded on Mondays, during extreme heat/cold seasons, in rain, etc. (Seoul Culture Portal)
Q4. Which section of Jeongdong-gil is the prettiest to walk?
The signature section is introduced as starting at the Deoksugung Stone Wall Walk and continuing past the entrance to the Seoul Museum of Art, with the 1 km stone wall + street trees highlighted as the key vibe point. (Official Website of the)
Q5. Is the Seoul Museum of Art (SeMA Seosomun Main Branch) paid?
Official guidance says it’s free (special exhibitions may be paid), and entry is allowed until 1 hour before closing. (SeMA)
Q6. Is Jeongdong Observatory free? When is it open?
According to Seoul’s guidance, admission is free, and it’s introduced as operating 13:30–17:30 on weekdays and 09:00–17:30 on weekends. (Media Hub Seoul)
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